By Ethel G. Hofman, Special To The Observer

For my mother, Chanukah was way beyond latkes. It was her cakes and cookies, rich, buttery and nut-studded that upheld her reputation as a generous hostess and superb baker.

At our island home, back in a time when doors were never locked, friends and neighbors would drop in unannounced during the eight day Festival of Lights.

Then they were welcomed with a pot of tea kept warm under a padded tea cosy (cover),  and a tempting variety of these buttery sweets, arranged on white lace d’oyleys on a silver three-tiered cakestand.

Jean Greenwald, my mother, spent more than 60 years living in the remote Shetland isles. But she adhered to the Scottish-Jewish custom of baking special dairy cakes and cookies for Chanukah.

I can still smell the spicy sweet aromas wafting from the warm kitchen when I came home from school on cold winter days.

Half a dozen cakes rested on wire racks and on a separate rack, buttery chocolate nuggets were piled high.

When completely cool, the cakes were lovingly wrapped in wax paper, sealed with adhesive tape and for good measure tied with string.

Cakes and cookies were packed in airtight containers, then stacked on a high shelf in the chilly porch. These were “keepin’ cakes and cookies ”  not to be touched before the first Chanukah candle was lit.

This “keepin’ cake and cookie ” custom fits in admirably well with our jammed schedules.

On a cold winter’s weekend or evening, organize a family baking session. Young and older will love it and it’s more productive and exciting than being a couch potato.

These items, rich in butter,  are best made ahead. To ensure that the cakes stay moist and airtight, I recommend using plastic wrap rather than wax paper and string or wrap in wax paper, then tightly with aluminum foil. Store in a cool place, not a warm kitchen.

All of these cakes and cookies may be frozen. Remove from freezer about three hours before serving. Slice cakes with a serrated knife.

Glace Cherry Loaf (dairy)
serves 10-12

Quick tips: Cut cherries into quarters with kitchen scissors and toss with 2 teaspoons of flour. Non-stick cooking spray with flour, perfect for baked items, is now available in supermarkets.

1/2 cup glace cherries, quartered
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 3/4 sticks (7 oz.) butter, softened
1/2 cup sugar
1 tsp. almond extract
3 eggs
1 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. allspice or nutmeg

Preheat oven to 325. Line the bottom of  a medium size loaf pan (8 1/2  x 4 1/2  x  2 1/2 inch) with wax paper. Spray bottom and sides of pan with non-stick cooking spray with flour. Toss the cherries with one tablespoon of the flour. Set aside. In a medium bowl, beat the butter, sugar and almond extract until pale and fluffy.

Add the eggs, one at a time, along with about a quarter cup of the flour. Mix well. Add the baking powder, allspice or nutmeg and the remaining flour gradually, mixing well to blend.

Using a wooden spoon, fold in the cherries. Transfer mixture to prepared loaf pan, smoothing the top with a spoon. Bake in preheated oven for one hour or until risen, golden and a toothpick comes out clean when inserted in center.

Nutty Chocolate Nuggets (dairy) makes about 36
6 Tbsp. unsalted butter at room temperature
1 cup sugar
1 egg
1 tsp. orange extract
1/4 cup chopped semisweet chocolate or 1/3 cup  chocolate chips, melted
1/4 cup milk
2 tsp. baking powder
2 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 cup chopped walnuts or other nuts
36 walnut halves

In a medium bowl, cream the butter and sugar till blended (mixture will be crumbly).

Add the egg, orange extract, melted chocolate, milk and 1/4 cup of the flour. Beat well. Add the baking powder and gradually add the remaining flour, beating well between each addition.

Stir in the chopped nuts. Cover with plastic wrap and chill three hours or overnight.

To bake: preheat oven to 375. Spray two large cookie sheets with non-stick cooking spray. Pinch off pieces of dough, about one inch in size.

Place on prepared cookie sheets about one inch apart. Press a walnut half onto each piece. Bake in preheated oven 18-20 minutes.

Cookies should be pale brown and still soft in center. They firm up as they cool. Cool on a wire tray. Store in a tight lidded container with wax paper between layers.

Chanukah Bundt Cake (dairy)
serves 15-18
I bake two of these cakes to last through Chanukah; they’re rich with butter and cream cheese, so slice thinly. Perfect with morning coffee or toasted and topped with fruit for dessert.

1 stick (4 oz.) butter at room temperature
9 oz. cream cheese, at room temperature
1 1/2 cups sugar
4 eggs
2 cups cake flour
2 tsp. vanilla extract
1 1/2 Tbsp. grated lime rind
powdered sugar

Preheat oven to 350. Spray a 10-inch bundt pan with nonstick cooking spray.

In a large mixing bowl, beat butter, cream cheese and sugar until pale and fluffy. Add eggs, one at a time with two tablespoons of the flour to prevent curdling. Beat well after each addition.

Add the vanilla, baking powder and remaining flour, a half cup at a time, beating well after each addition. Stir in the lime rind. Spoon batter into prepared bundt pan.

Bake in preheated oven for 55 to 60 minutes or until cake is golden and a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean.

Cool five to seven minutes in pan before turning out onto a wire rack to cool. Before serving, dust with powdered sugar.

Coconut Cake (dairy)
serves 10-12

1 1/2 sticks (6 oz.) unsalted butter, at room temperature
3/4 cup plus 2 Tbsp. sugar
3 large eggs
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 1/4 tsp. baking powder
pinch ground nutmeg
1 cup finely shredded coconut

Preheat oven to 350. Spray an 8-inch cake pan or an 8-inch square baking dish with nonstick cooking spray with flour.

Cut the butter into pieces. In a medium bowl, beat the butter and sugar until pale and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, along with one tablespoon of the flour to prevent curdling.

Add the vanilla and beat to combine. Fold in the remaining flour, baking powder, nutmeg and coconut. Transfer to prepared cake tin or baking dish. Bake in preheated oven for one hour or until a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean.

Cool on a wire rack for 10 minutes before removing from pan to cool completely. Cut in thin wedges or squares to serve.

Caraway Seed Cake (dairy)
serves 10-12
In Scotland, pungent caraway seeds are a popular flavoring for cakes and cookies.

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
3/4 cup sugar
3 eggs
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 Tbsp. frozen orange juice concentrate, thawed
11/2 tsp. baking powder
2 Tbsp. caraway seeds

Preheat oven to 350. Spray a round 11/2 quart ovenproof souffle dish or  9 x 5 x 3-inch loaf pan with non-stick cooking spray with flour.

In a medium bowl, cream butter and sugar until pale and fluffy. Beat in eggs, one at a time, with a little flour to prevent curdling.

Add the orange juice and mix well. Add remaining flour and baking powder, about 1/4 cup at a time, mixing well after each addition. Stir in the caraway seeds.

Turn into prepared cake pan, smoothing top with a spoon.  Bake in preheated oven 45 to 55 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool slightly.

Loosen edges with a round bladed knife before turning onto a wire rack to cool completely.